Remember safety first here and make sure the car is well supported. I put the front up on ramps and the rear on decent axle stands (on the chassis).
Starting from the front, the bumpers are attached to the chassis and body so need to be detached.
This is done by undoing the bolts under the front valence. I removed the anti-roll bar at this stage as I think it may interfere with the separation.
Next I had to remove the rear shock attachments to the body (I have a telescopic rear shock conversion). One side was easy, while the other wouldn't budge so I had to unbolt the whole body mounting
Then the handbrake cable. This means removing the split pins and clevis pins at the back of brake drums. Then the attachment of the handbrake cable from the trailing arm (secured by a nut, see hole in the figure below).
Finally there are 2 mountings each side for the rear bumper behind the rear valence as well as one final bolt each side between the rear of the chassis and the boot floor.
The last of these attachments was the hardest. It is tricky to access without removing the rear wing and in my case was completely rusted up. The nut and head of the bolt was also completely rounded off.
Luckily as I was going to replace the chassis I had the luxury of being able to use an angle grinder to cut the chassis so I could grind the head off the bolt.
The last two connections between the chassis and body remaining are the spare wheel hook (I didn't have one of these....Or even the bar across the chassis that it attaches to. this obviously wouldn't help the rigidity of the chassis!!!) and the rear fuel pipes (X2)
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